This plant is no more than two to three feet tall, and has long leaves of about 15 - 20 inches, with an inch in width. One bulb usually produces a couple of tall stalks on which three to four large trumpet-shaped flowers bloom in spring.
They should not have leaf sprouts, unless you purchase a potted plant. Indoor as well as outdoor care is more or less the same. For container gardening, choose a sandy-loam soil mix with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8, while for planting them in flower beds, elevate the soil about ten inches, and add a good measure of organic matter to ensure good drainage.
Plant the bulbs deep enough to cover the root ball―the tip of the bulbs should be left to protrude outside. In flower beds, space the bulbs about 5 - 8 inches apart, to avoid overcrowding.
A good amount of sunlight should be ensured for indoor plants. The plant will flower in 7 - 10 weeks―increase the water frequency when it begins to bloom. To ensure a longer blooming period, plant bulbs at intervals of 1 - 2 weeks.
One can make the amaryllis flower again, after the flowering is over. Remove the dead head, cut back the flower stalk to the ground, and feed it with liquid fertilizer. A new stalk will spring up in a week's time.
The leaves should turn yellow and wilt away on their own―more leaf growth means bulb multiplication. Once all the leaves fall to the ground, dig out the bulbs from the soil. Shake off all dirt, trim excessively long roots, and dust some fungicide powder before storing them in a mesh bag in a cool dry place.
Keep checking every few weeks for fungal growth. One can leave the bulbs in the ground too―just mulch around them to save them from the winter frost.
Proper care will ensure a good prolonged amaryllis flower show, while taking care of the bulbs will ensure that your stock keeps multiplying.